This week in bra making forum a member posted a picture of a Victoria Secret bra and pointed to a design detail on the bridge and asked how to recreate it. I happened to have that bra in a couple of different sizes so I offered to write this post as an analysis on how to recreate this RTW detail on your own bra. The technique uses a variation on the Gothic Arch an alteration that has been covered by Beverly Johnson on both her blog and in her Craftsy classes.
It also features an open bridge attached at the top and utilizes a stabilizing piece of bridge lining behind the gothic arch to further reinforce it. Now the key to making a bridge like this work is having the measurements just so and the bridge in the right place so the cups don’t fall forward. This is not a partial band bra even though it looks like it from a distance. It is still a full frame bra but you’d need to thin the band pattern on most commercial bra patterns. However, it’s easy to do this at the same time you change the arch.
For this comparison, I am using the measurements from a 38C bra. I will also provide the measurements for the 34B. The bridge width is exactly the same for both sizes at 25mm which is a pretty standard measurement. In general bridge width does not change when grading a pattern up and down in size.
For this example I have used the bridge from Elise Pattern‘s Chelsea bra which I have previously reviewed. Start by drawing a center line down the middle of the bridge. If your bridge is cut on the fold you will not have to do this step. The measure down 10mm from the top of the bridge and draw a line parallel to the top of the bride. This measure was the same for the 34B and the 38C. This becomes the top piece for your two piece bridge. Then measure down 33mm from the top of the bridge (30mm for 34B) and mark a guideline.Read More