Before I proceed with my next post about the band draft of the Foundations Revealed How to Make a Bra series I’d like to talk about an issue I mentioned in my last post. I made a fundamental error at the beginning of the drafting process. While the end result may look technically correct it is not. I sat for awhile looking and it and instinctively I knew it was wrong. I then set about to analyze why it was wrong and to retrace my steps. I thought I’d share this with you since I feel that understanding where mistakes can occur in the process to be more useful than the instructions.
This particular issue was not a flaw in the method. It originated because I printed out the instructions onto a hard copy. When I printed out the hard copy the part of the text from step one became separated from its corresponding diagram. I am a visual learner and tend to follow diagrams rather than reading the instructions. Having used this method before I was skimming through the text.
During step one I traced the underwire and marked the balance point on the paper. However, I then proceeded to step two and sprung the wire and retraced it. However what I DID not do was drop the front of the wire down 5mm and retilt the wire. This moves the balance point back towards the side seam and the tilt helps the wire fit against the chest wall better. Not doing this results in a cradle that may look technically correct but will not fit as well. The bridge ended up too high for the wire I was using.
Visually after having sewn many bras I knew it was off. It didn’t look in harmony with the rest of the pattern. It wasn’t a beautiful draft. However if you are new to bra making errors like this may occur and you may not notice until you test it.
This particular issue wasn’t a result of any flaw in the instructions. In my next blog post, I will mention a few details that could trip you up so you can avoid any mistakes in your drafting process. I am very grateful to all the authors whose work I get the luxury of reviewing. They truly have put in the hard work to provide the resources for the next generation of bra designers and enthusiasts.